Galicia Spain, Here's Looking at you Pilgrim

RICH:  
We have left Portugal and re-entered Spain.  The Northern Spain region is unlike the rest of Spain with the wild Atlantic, green forests, enormous rainfall, and history dating back to the Celts, Romans, and Visigoths - our spirits are high.  

Speaking of spirits, nothing is more iconic of Northern Spain, and particularly the Galicia region, than the Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.  The walk to visit the remains of St. James has been made by millions of people since the Middle Ages.   Many come to find inner peace, others, after walking 600+ kilometers from places as far away as France and all parts of Spain, come needing to be healed.  We made our pilgrimage by EuropeCar.   The availability of food, drink and showers at such extreme distances was better left to people with two good knees.

Thankfully, Northern Spain is not hot enough for Brits, Irish, Germans, and Scandinavians. The result is an unspoiled, beautiful part of the world, bereft of ugly high rises and mushy peas.  You will love it. 

...You will find markers and sign posts guiding the Pilgrims along the Spiritual Trail...  

View from the roof top of The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Tired Pilgrims at the end of their walk, don't know where many started...

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...but they all end here at The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.  Some will continue to walk to Finisterre (the end of the world in Roman times) where there is a final ritual or tradition of burning your clothes at the end the Pilgrim's journey...

Being A Pilgrim is so much easier to read...

WANDA:
We all know what kind of pilgrimage you are really interested in Rich -  "The Food Lover's Pilgrimage".... hmmm - I guess that's what we have already been doing... oh well, carry on...

I would like to sincerely say that we have friends that have just completed the walk - 

Victoria (twice) and Julia Cosgrove !!  

2 BadAss Women walking the Camino - You are both our heroes!  

(I just stole this picture from Victoria's facebook page)

...Back to the rest of Galicia:  We actually started in Vigo, then went to Santiago Compostella, A Coruna, and ended in Cathedral Beach... The people here are fascinating - you expect them to speak Spanish, and they do, but they prefer their native language which is Galician or Gallego.  They are very proud of their heritage and consider themselves Celts.  In fact, we have seen many Buskers playing Bagpipe music and wearing Celtic garb - very different from the rest of Spain.

Galicia's fishing fleet is the largest in Spain... so you can expect the traditional foods are 
  seafood of all kinds - Octopus or "Pulpa" and Squid seem to be a recurring theme on the coast of Spain.... 

In Vigo - an important Port city in Galicia, there is a magnificent bronze sculpture of Jules Verne sitting on a giant squid (The Bay of Vigo was a chapter in his famous book 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea) .... 

...Looking as bronzed as the sculpture above, we happened to be in Vigo on an important day - My Birthday! - though, I prefer eating a giant plate of squid to sitting on one...Saude!

......"Then Nemo says, Oh, and by the way, it just so happens we're in Vigo Bay now - the place where all of this Spanish treasure went down....."  

Next stop is A Coruna - When one first drives into town, you notice all the white wooden windows... which are the traditional windows of Galicia...

.... even more noticeable is the beautiful coastline -  beaches and cliffs surround the city 
(I know this is not the greatest picture)...

.....it is breathtaking.... there are trails and promenades that encircle the city - everyone looks healthy here, because it seems they are all walking or running and enjoying the outdoors - we got our 10,000 + steps in every day here!....

This captivating Cephalopod created of ceramic and concrete overlooks one of the many promenades...

....and this captivating "home fermoso"  looks to finish his 8th pulpa tentacle...

We fell in love with A Coruna - yes, the city itself - but even more,  the story of Maria Pita - a Galician heroine who fought against the English in  1589 - the dead soldier probably represents Sir Francis Drake.... She is definitely another BadAss Woman of Herstory!

The Tower of Hercules (another UNESCO World Heritage Site)  is an ancient Roman lighthouse built in the 1st century at the entrance of A Coruna harbor... I think I see Hercules himself at the bottom of the picture...

Leaving A Coruna, on a very windy day.....

...and heading to Cathedral Beach....watch your step!!  Galicia has over 1,000 miles of coastline with bays, inlets, beaches, and rocky cliffs - and they aren't crowded!

Rich stepping into the cathedral....

Walking through the arches....

....exploring the dark caves...

....climbing the rocks....you just don't want to leave this picturesque place!

You can understand why Galicia has declared this area as a Natural Monument. 

You can only walk the beach and appreciate the natural beauty of the arches and caves during low tide....
Rich waving!!   Happy Birthday Rich!!!

The tide is starting to come in....Rich better hurry - he's the last one leaving the beach... in trouble again, we were told high tide happens quickly...

Whoah! - that was quick, it's high tide....Where is Rich???....

STAY TUNED.....

VINTAGE PORTO, and the Douro River

RICH:

Our hearts have been captured again.  The incredible beauty of PORTO and the amazing terraced vineyards of the Douro River Valley are entrancing.  Whether staying at a family winery (Quinta do Passadouro) and being treated to wonderful Portuguese food paired with delicious PORTO wine and Port, or staying next to the river in Porto and taking long stimulating walks by the Atlantic, or eating in traditional fish grilling sidewalk restaurants, Porto captivates you.  Portugal has kept its heritage and culture, through earthquakes and horrible dictators.   Now when you visit it, the charm and beauty resonates.


WANDA:

Below is a view of the famous Douro Valley, with the world's most dramatic and inspiring vineyard landscapes...it's no wonder the area is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
Amazing that wine has been produced in this region for some 2,000 years - besides the vineyards, olive and almond trees decorate the landscape too...

The Douro Valley extends from the city of Porto to about 70 KM east (inland) all along the Douro River...

... We took a cruise down the Douro River to get a closer look at the landscape of the steep terraced vineyards that blanket the countryside...This is the world's most difficult wine growing region as the vineyards inclines vary from 35% to 70% from the river bed and the almost non-existent soil has been created from the schist or slate/shale rocks that are smashed using dynamite and other tools... 

Grapes are grown 3 ways in the Douro Valley - the oldest vineyards are the "Ancient Stone-walled Terraces" built by hand and very narrow, with one or two rows of vines harvested by hand -  around 1970 they started "Vertical Plantings" where the land is not as steep, common in other wine regions - and in the 1980's the modern terraces built are called "Patamare" or on Platforms, no walls and designed so a tractor can drive through.  
The vineyards are up and down the Douro River and seem to go on forever - the landscape is striking and beautiful...

Quinta do Passadouro
We stayed near the town of Pinhao at the above 4 bedroom farmhouse.  

Ronald, the estate manager is explaining the history of the Douro Valley Vineyards and discussing the "Douro Region" areas - The Baixo Corgo (rainiest and closest to the mountains -produces lightest wines meant to drink early), the Cimo Corgo (drier climate produces high quality tawny and vintage port, location  of many of the finest vineyards), and  the Douro Superior (least developed in the easternmost area and most arid) newest plantings and still expanding

  This property is in the heart of the Douro's Cima Corgo....the grapes are all picked by hand during harvest and the traditional foot-treading in granite lagares is still done.  Richard has signed up to work the next harvest.

Wines are aged in French barrels...

enjoying a Quinta do Passadoura wine in the backyard...

...and later in the evening being hosted by Ronald and Jet, along with new friends.  Dinner always started with a Port aperitif and ended with dessert and Port.  Of course we had many of Ronald's other favorite wines during dinner.  
Dinners always started at 8 and ended well after midnight - then all we had to do was stumble to our rooms...

...the dinners were delicious rustic Portuguese Casseroles (notice I have no pictures of our dinners because we managed to do more drinking than should be allowed).  
We wish we had stayed longer!

We left the Douro Valley and headed to Porto, the 2nd largest city in Portugal and the city where Port takes its name from.  The Portuguese name for Porto is "O Porto"  which simply means "The Port"...  

Porto is hilly with many buildings along the Douro River built right into the cliffs.  This old historic city has been continuously inhabited since the 4th century, during the Roman times...

The Atlantic Ocean at the mouth of the Douro River

Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia are across the Douro River from each other...There is a friendly  rivalry as to who has the better view.   

Porto's riverfront called "The Ribeira" is scenic - lot's of restaurants and people watching....

....wonderful outdoor Fado in the streets...

...and locals working on a model wine boat or rabelo....

The historic city center of Porto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site...

Shopping in Porto

The Cathedral of Porto 

This Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque Cathedral was constructed in the 12th to the 13th century...

...We walked across the bridge from Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia.  Gaia is known for its cellars or caves where Port wine is stored and aged before being shipped.   We visited a few cellars, tasted, and learned about how Port is made and of course enjoyed...




The view of Porto from Gaia.... 
The Barlos Rabelos are flat sailing vessels used since the 9th century for transporting the barrels from the farms to the cellars in Gaia.  Today they use trains/trucks to transport barrels and the Rabelos for Regatta races.

Enjoying a little Port from Porto Cruz ....

There are numerous Cellars or Caves in Gaia - it's easy to walk up and down the town and visit any of them, it makes for a relaxing day...

Enjoying Port from Calem...

....and enjoying more Port (along with the spectacular view of Porto) with Vintage Port from Taylor's Winery with Wendy and David (that we met at Quinto do Passadouro)...Taylor's is one of the oldest Port Houses...

Back across the bridge in Porto...

... we always ask about the local foods that everyone snacks on -  The Francesinha Sandwich seems to be the most popular - different meats ie steak, ham, pork slices on what looks like white Wonder Bread with melted cheese and a rich sauce made with beer and tomatoes and I am sure a few other ingredients.  Most are eaten with a fried egg and fries (Richard) - I decided on the "diet" plate.  Not my type of gastronomic delight -once was enough for me.  I can understand why it's the only place in the world you can find it!  : )...

We asked where is the best place to eat fresh fish in the city and we were led to the neighborhood of Matosinhos.  Barbecues lined the streets - I don't think it mattered where you ate, you were assured of delicious fresh caught fish, because the fish market is directly across the street...
 Loved it!!

Rich found a table by the window at Antonio's...

....Chef using only the finest sea salt to season the fresh Salmon and Sardines...

Street food at it's best! 

I had the traditional Portuguese Kale soup with chourico and Rich a sea food soup to start, followed by grilled sardines and salmon...

Thumbs up to all things Porto!!!....

...and to the towns of Braga, Guimares,  Barcelos, (and your roosters) and Viana do Castelo,  you are beautiful, and very wet..

....Our time in Porto and Portugal is over...as Henry the Navigator would probably say, it's time to explore new lands we haven't been to before - 
Off to the coast of Northern Spain!......